The Mystical Art of Kalamkari - Around Always

 Kalamkari is as mystical as a textile, it has more unseen character than just being a fabric used for clothing or home. Kalamkari is just more than a textile to an experience that culture has witnessed over centuries. 

 Kalamkari is also known as a healing fabric, as the colors, motifs, compositions, and the narration of magical forms create an aura that heals an individual physically and spiritually, like what Sri Lankan masks are known for keeping aside the lousy omen and bringing health and prosperity.

 Although even art historians do not know precisely when Kalamkari began, it originated in the modern-day states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana several hundred years ago. Deriving its name from the word ‘kalam,’ which means pen, ‘Kalamkari’ refers to a particular, intricate style of hand-painting onto a cloth. This style was first used to portray scenes from sacred texts such as the Mahabharata, Ramayana, and Bhagavatam. These paintings were often used as decorative backdrops in temples, depicting the stories of deities.

The Making

The process of making Kalamkari involves 23 steps. From the natural process of bleaching the fabric, softening it, sun drying, preparing natural dyes, hand painting, to the processes of air drying and washing, the entire procedure is a process that requires precision and an eye for detailing.

The cotton fabric used for Kalamkari is first treated with a solution of cow dung and bleach. After keeping the fabric in this solution for hours, the fabric gets a uniform off-white color. After this, the cotton fabric is immersed in a mixture of buffalo milk and Myrobalans. This avoids smudging of dyes in the fabric when it is painted with natural dyes. Later, the fabric is washed under running water to get rid of the odor of buffalo milk.  The fabric likewise, is washed twenty times and dried under the sun. Once the fabric is ready for painting, the artist sketches motifs and designs on the fabric. Post this, the Kalamkari artists prepare dyes using natural sources to fill colors within the drawings.

Incorporating minute details, the Kalamkari use ‘tamarind twig’ as a pen, to sketch beautiful motifs of Krishna Raas-Leela, Indian gods and goddesses like Parvati, Vishnu, Shri Jaganath; designs of peacocks, lotus; and scenes from the Hindu epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana.

Colors of Kalamkari

Kalamkari art primarily uses earthy colors like indigo, mustard, rust, black and green. Natural dyes used to paint colors in Kalamkari art are extracted from natural sources with no use of chemicals or artificial matter. For instance, craftsmen extract black color by blending jaggery, water, and iron fillings which they essentially use for outlining the sketches. While mustard or yellow is derived by boiling pomegranate peels, red hues are created from the bark of madder or again. Likewise, blue is obtained from indigo and green is derived by mixing yellow and blue together.

Types of Kalamkari

There are two identifiable styles of Kalamkari art in India – Srikalahasti style and Machilipatnam style. In the Machilipatnam style of Kalamkari, motifs are essentially printed with hand-carved traditional blocks with intricate detailing painted by hands. On the other hand, the Srikalahasti style of painting draws inspiration from Hindu mythology describing scenes from the epics and folklore. This style holds a strong religious connection because of its origin in the temples.

In recent times, two other types of Kalamkari patterns have also emerged, based on the states where it is created. Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh are two prime states in India, where two different types of Kalamkari patterns are done. The Andhra Kalamkari borrows design inspiration from forts, palaces, and temples of India, along with motifs of animals and birds. While the Gujarat Kalamkari depicts motifs of mythological characters like Krishna-Arjuna from Mahabharata, lord Krishna, lord Ganesha, lord Buddha, etc.

 

Last not least, everyone must learn these age-old techniques, for its revival, for it to survive and grow, and to know better Indian History, culture, and textiles that were practiced from generation to generation. It is an individual’s commitment to adopt a craft and bring it to the forefront of the modern world and mainstream home and lifestyle fashion. 

A variety of accessories, including potlis, belts, and other items, are available for all occasions at Around Always. Products made by hand and hand-embroidered patterns. Visit Now!